Дикий пляж на мысе Фиолент

В мае я задалась задачей найти пляж, посоветованный мне местным жителем, под кодовым названием «300 ступеней», якобы спуск на который намного проще, чем на «800 ступеней», находится неподалеку и не менее живописный. В интернете про 300 ступеней никакого упоминания.

Посмотрев карту, я примерно предположила, где он находится: на самом мысе Фиолент.

Мы приехали на машине на плато над мысом с потрясающим видом:

Вокруг пасутся лошадки, вдали облака наплывают на скалы, красота неописуемая:

И вот они — ступеньки! Казалось бы, мы нашли по описанию именно этот пляж:

Наслаждаясь видами, мы пошли по ступенькам вниз:

Ступеньки такие удобные, насчитали их уже около сотни:

Справа и слева нависают камни, выветренные до состояния губки:

Современная наскальная живопись:

Тут лестница заканчивается и тропа уходит довольно резко вниз. Почему-то нас это не насторожило — ничего страшного, тут ступеньки разрушились, дальше будут опять:

Ладно, бывает, спускаемся метров 50, держась руками за камни, потому что из-под ног сыплется песок и мелкая галька.

Дальше видим — спуск почти вертикально вниз и привязана веревка. Тут до меня начинает доходить, что где-то нас кидают — не может быть пляж с легким спуском с веревкой и таким резким углом наклона.

Но раз пришли — дойдем до конца. Веревка оказалась проводом, хотя спускаться по нему довольно удобно:

Все бы и хорошо, если бы крепление этой веревки не было за чахлый кустик, такой вид, что он оторвется в любой момент:

Кустик выдержал, но дальше тропа настолько же крутая, но уже без веревки:

Из-под ног уже не только песок сыпется, а довольно большие потоки камней. Взгляд вверх: ай-ай, еще же подниматься придется!

Вот такой вот «пологий» спуск:

Дальше — нечто, на вид похожее на широкую тропу. Но это вовсе не тропа — это оползень из мелких камешков, в них нога уходит по щиколотку, если туда наступить. Вниз можно съехать на попе вместе с этими камешками, а вверх-то как?

Тут у меня рационализм перевесил и я села и наотрез отказалась ползти дальше. А до моря осталось всего-то метров 30. Не то дойти до конца, а потом, возможно, не выбраться, не то бросить за 30 метров до конца и карабкаться назад. Нервов на решение было потрачено немало.

Но таки-решилась съехать по этим камешкам.

Вот и пляж:

Пляж, конечно, симпатичный: мелкая галька, пустынно, чистая вода. Но спуск сюда нереальный!

Причудливые скалы очень похожи на те, что на пляже «800 ступеней», это же совсем рядом:

В мае вода еще холодная, и до симпатичных скал, возвышающихся неподалеку из-за этого не доплыли, а там, наверное, интересно! На скалах отдыхают птицы:

На пляже мы искупались, пообедали, восстановили силы после нелегкого спуска:

Полюбовались на дальние скалы, и пошли на подъем.

Как ни странно, подъем оказался не сложнее спуска. Конечно, сначала ноги увязали в камнях на оползне, это место пришлось проползать на четвереньках, дальше — тоже с помощью рук. А там уже и веревка, с ней подъем совсем простой.

Когда мы доползли до ступеней, я уже чуть ли не рыдала от счастья — мы туда слазили и остались живы и невредимы 🙂

Последний взгляд на скалы, они называются Орест и Пилад:

Ой, это фото уже было, в самом начале 🙂

Оказалось, это совсем не тот пляж, что мы искали, а какой-то дикий труднодоступный. Но приключение получилось незабываемое. Если вы — любитель экстремальных спусков, то спуститься на него было бы интересно. Спуск начинается на самом мысе Фиолент, чуть южнее его оконечности (или слева, если смотреть на в сторону моря), найдете по наличию ступенек 🙂

Тот, что мы искали, нашелся в июле, он называется Царский, там действительно, очень легкий спуск, только ступеней не 300, а всего 180:

Царский пляж на мысе Фиолент

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