Мангуп-кале, дорога к древнему городу на вершине горы

Еще в прошлом году, катаясь в окрестностях села Терновки на квадроциклах, мы услышали о древнем городе на вершине горы, но без машины путь туда показался нереально долгим и трудным.

В теплый мартовский день, когда оказалось, что нет никаких планов, мы решили съездить, наконец-то, на Мангуп-кале. Так как решение возникло спонтанно, и время было уже послеобеденное, вся подготовка свелась в отметке координат объекта на айфоне. Навигатор смело проложил дорогу прямо к средневековой цитадели, поэтому мы сели в машину, предвкушая обычную легкую прогулку с доставкой на машине прямо к месту. По шоссе машина неожиданно разогналась до 140 км в час, небывалая скорость для нашей малолитражки.

Проехали Терновку, повернули, как нам показывал навигатор. Молодец, навигатор! Дальше нам предстояло, по его совету, прямо по отвесному склону подняться на высокогорное плато.

Так как у нас машина, а не вертолет, мы стали искать объезд, он нашелся недалеко, в паре километров, через село Ходжа Сала. Так как при въезде в село располагался огромное (по местным меркам), 3х этажное здание ресторана с названием «Мангуп», стало понятно, что мы двигаемся в нужном направлении.

Рядом с явно искусственным прудом информационные щиты извещали о том, что начинается заповедная зона и въезд на автомобилях запрещен. Ага, а дальше по дороге село, значит не совсем запрещен. Поехали дальше.

Вот туда, на гору, навигатор нам предлагал заехать по прямой.

Сразу после села, дорога стала о-о-очень бугристая, по ней со скоростью в 2-5 км в час мы смогли проехать метров 100, собрав днищем все кочки.

Дальше по бокам дороги возвышались остатки шлагбаума, а роль самого шлагбаума выполняла яма шириной во всю дорогу и глубиной метра 1,5. Вот и приехали.

Так как ни еды, ни даже сумки для бутылки с водой с собой не было (только крошечный рюкзачок для сотового, в который я упихала 2 малюсеньких кексика), решили ехать назад в село, консультироваться с местными.

Местные показали тропинку в горы. Чего там, высота горы всего-то 500 метров. Я ненавижу подъемы (точнее за зиму так разбаловалась, что выносливость упала до минимума), надежда доехать до места на машине окончательно рухнула…

Итак, одетые и экипированные, как для похода в соседний магазин (то есть никак), не завтракавшие, с 2мя микрокексиками и бутылкой воды мы пошли в гору.

Через каждые метров 100 предусмотрительные люди поставили лавочки, я посидела на каждой из них. Уже на второй лавочке мы решили, что надо поесть! Кексики оказались безумно вкусными. Подъем оказался не настолько страшным, как казалось снизу, вокруг голые деревья были обвиты плющом с блестящими на солнце листьями, цвели целые поляны белых цветов.

За проходящими следили окаменевшие тролли. Первой показалась вот такая вылезающая из-под земли бабулька.

А дальше нас встречал вылитый элементал земли (из 4х героев).

И тут появилась стена. Высоченная стена посреди леса. Потом я прочитала в интернете, что длина этой стены около 6,5 км. Бедные завоеватели этих мест! Мало того, что им приходилось карабкаться по такой круче, потом их со стены поливали всякой гадостью и поспали стрелами. А все ради чего? А кто его знает, посмотрим, что там за богатства, что их так охраняли.

О, а дальше стало очень интересно! Древний некрополь, множество могильных плит с вязью, некоторые надписи настолько хорошо сохранились, что кажется, что это современная подделка специально для туристов. Может быть оно и так, но так как там были все стадии сохранности текста от еле заметного, до такого четкого, как на фото, я решила, что это все-таки настоящие могильные плиты.

Из одной могилки, по-видимому, кто-то недавно вылез. Или залез назад.

И еще могильные плиты

Продолжение: Мангуп-кале, жилища, выбитые в скалах

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