Продолжение. Начало: Мангуп-кале, дорога к древнему городу на вершине горы
Дальше дорога вышла на плато, и пока вдалеке не было видно горных пик, равнина была похожа на обычный полузапущенный подмосковный парк. Но тут мы подошли к краю долины и сразу стало понятно, что лезли сюда не зря.
С края плато открывается потрясающий вид – на юго-востоке горы, их вершины покрыты снежными шапками.
На север – долина, где расположен поселок, из которого мы пришли, а на юго-западе видны поля и холмы до самого Севастополя (точнее до Балаклавы).
У края плато в камне выбиты прямоугольные водосборники, не то для оттока воды, не то для сбора.
А дальше – самое интересное! Начался сам каменный город. Пещеры, выбитые в скале, располагающиеся ниже уровня плато. Первая, самая маленькая пещера, с входом в виде буквы Т.
Дальше – более благоустроенная квартира, с хорошими ступеньками вниз.
Но, не повезло – там потом, наверное, соседи сверху залили! Жаль, квартирка довольно светлая и просторная, с большим окном с видом на горы.
Следующее жилье сухое, но не такое светлое. Разве эта щель слева – полноценное окно?
Дальше идем к остаткам цитадели, размер ее довольно внушительный, УАЗик теряется на ее фоне. Наверное, в цитадели жили самые богатые и влиятельные люди этого поселения.
Вот в этой долине, внизу, село Ходжа Сала, и там нас ждут шашлыки! А, что? Какие шашлыки? Тут такие потрясающие сооружения!
Про шашлыки мой молодой человек вспоминал каждые 5 минут, пока мы поднимались и шли по плато. Хотя на плато, наверное, чуть реже, не до шашлыков, когда вокруг такие удивительные сооружения.
Чем дальше, тем все более шикарные жилища, это – с панорамным окном во всю стену и второй комнатой.
Эта картина напомнила мне жилище родителей маленького Энекена Скайуокера из Звездных войн.
А дальше – самое интересное! 3х этажные апартаменты, лестница со среднего на самый нижний этаж идет по краю пропасти, к сожалению, мой фотик против солнца нормальные фотографии делать отказался.
Справа от ступенек — пропасть в 500 метров:
Нижний этаж состоит из 3х залов, самый дальний украшен какой-то загадочной огромной эмблемой на всю стену, а в 2х остальных есть выходы в небольшие помещения. У меня возникло 2 версии назначения этого жилья: или это муниципальное жилье для многодетных, каждому по комнатке и открытая терраса с пропастью в 500 метров высотой. Очень удобно, если кто-то слишком расшалился – в пропасть его, чтобы другим неповадно было. Зал с эмблемой – это столовая, и эмблема означает что-то типа «Хлеб – всему голова» из школьной столовой.
Вторая версия – это монастырь, дальний зал с эмблемой – это молельня, а маленькие комнаты – кельи.
Хотя скорее всего, это было жилище какого-нибудь богача. И по вечерам он сидел на террасе, глядел на долину, где крестьяне гнули спину ему на радость, и попивал чай из пиалы…
Так и представляется, что эти каменные пещеры были устланы самоткаными коврами, в середине горел очаг, город жил, там было многолюдно…
Обратная дорога была не такая уж и простая, как казалось, земля скользкая и сырая. Но вниз мы спустились довольно быстро, чуть заблудившись на самом плато. И встретили там, на вершине, упитанного кота. Чем он там питается? Явно, что не голодает, раза в 2 больше моих кошек, вместе взятых.
В кафе нас ждал шашлык, вкусный суп и хинкали, все приготовленное на дровах. И домашнее вино, какое же оно тут вкусное! Цены в меню, понятное дело, в гривнах. На 500 рублей мы наелись досыта, выпили 1,5 литра чая, а я еще и стакан потрясающего крепленого вина.
Вот так закончилось первое путешествие этой весной. А сколько еще в Крыму таких загадочных и удивительных мест, куда хочется попасть!
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