Мангуп-кале, жилища, выбитые в скалах

Продолжение. Начало: Мангуп-кале, дорога к древнему городу на вершине горы

Дальше дорога вышла на плато, и пока вдалеке не было видно горных пик, равнина была похожа на обычный полузапущенный подмосковный парк. Но тут мы подошли к краю долины и сразу стало понятно, что лезли сюда не зря.

С края плато открывается потрясающий вид – на юго-востоке горы, их вершины покрыты снежными шапками.

На север – долина, где расположен поселок, из которого мы пришли, а на юго-западе видны поля и холмы до самого Севастополя (точнее до Балаклавы).

У края плато в камне выбиты прямоугольные водосборники, не то для оттока воды, не то для сбора.

А дальше – самое интересное! Начался сам каменный город. Пещеры, выбитые в скале, располагающиеся ниже уровня плато. Первая, самая маленькая пещера, с входом в виде буквы Т.

Дальше – более благоустроенная квартира, с хорошими ступеньками вниз.

Но, не повезло – там потом, наверное, соседи сверху залили! Жаль, квартирка довольно светлая и просторная, с большим окном с видом на горы.

Следующее жилье сухое, но не такое светлое. Разве эта щель слева – полноценное окно?

Дальше идем к остаткам цитадели, размер ее довольно внушительный, УАЗик теряется на ее фоне. Наверное, в цитадели жили самые богатые и влиятельные люди этого поселения.

Вот в этой долине, внизу, село Ходжа Сала, и там нас ждут шашлыки! А, что? Какие шашлыки? Тут такие потрясающие сооружения!
Про шашлыки мой молодой человек вспоминал каждые 5 минут, пока мы поднимались и шли по плато. Хотя на плато, наверное, чуть реже, не до шашлыков, когда вокруг такие удивительные сооружения.

Чем дальше, тем все более шикарные жилища, это – с панорамным окном во всю стену и второй комнатой.

Эта картина напомнила мне жилище родителей маленького Энекена Скайуокера из Звездных войн.

А дальше – самое интересное! 3х этажные апартаменты, лестница со среднего на самый нижний этаж идет по краю пропасти, к сожалению, мой фотик против солнца нормальные фотографии делать отказался.

Справа от ступенек — пропасть в 500 метров:

Нижний этаж состоит из 3х залов, самый дальний украшен какой-то загадочной огромной эмблемой на всю стену, а в 2х остальных есть выходы в небольшие помещения. У меня возникло 2 версии назначения этого жилья: или это муниципальное жилье для многодетных, каждому по комнатке и открытая терраса с пропастью в 500 метров высотой. Очень удобно, если кто-то слишком расшалился – в пропасть его, чтобы другим неповадно было. Зал с эмблемой – это столовая, и эмблема означает что-то типа «Хлеб – всему голова» из школьной столовой.

Вторая версия – это монастырь, дальний зал с эмблемой – это молельня, а маленькие комнаты – кельи.

Хотя скорее всего, это было жилище какого-нибудь богача. И по вечерам он сидел на террасе, глядел на долину, где крестьяне гнули спину ему на радость, и попивал чай из пиалы…

Так и представляется, что эти каменные пещеры были устланы самоткаными коврами, в середине горел очаг, город жил, там было многолюдно…

Обратная дорога была не такая уж и простая, как казалось, земля скользкая и сырая. Но вниз мы спустились довольно быстро, чуть заблудившись на самом плато. И встретили там, на вершине, упитанного кота. Чем он там питается? Явно, что не голодает, раза в 2 больше моих кошек, вместе взятых.

В кафе нас ждал шашлык, вкусный суп и хинкали, все приготовленное на дровах. И домашнее вино, какое же оно тут вкусное! Цены в меню, понятное дело, в гривнах. На 500 рублей мы наелись досыта, выпили 1,5 литра чая, а я еще и стакан потрясающего крепленого вина.

Вот так закончилось первое путешествие этой весной. А сколько еще в Крыму таких загадочных и удивительных мест, куда хочется попасть!

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